The English Market

Culinary Jewel in the Food Capital of Ireland

By localfocus

February 26^th, 2015

open for business

Cork, capital of the self-styled ‘rebel county’ and renowned for its proudly independent spirit, has been steadily nurturing its reputation as a champion of food and drink in Ireland. Formerly the main provisioning port in the Atlantic for the British Navy and numerous trade convoys due to its unparalleled natural harbor, the city was home to the Cork Butter Market, the largest and most famous of its kind in the world during the 19th century. Now regarded as the food capital of the country, the city by the Lee, and the nation’s second-most populous city, is home to the English Market, one of the finest covered markets in Europe and the epicenter of the city’s gourmet scene. Founded in 1788, the English Market or in Irish, An Margadh Sasanach, was created by the Protestant or English corporation that controlled the city at the time and is currently anchored by Princes Street Market at one end and by Grand Parade Market at the other.

a storied past

In 1789, a year after its opening, additional fish, fowl and vegetable markets were created, adjoining the original meat market. The “New Fish Market” was located at the Grand Parade end with the new “Root” or “Green Market” situated at the Princes Street end. Political reform in 1840 ushered in a new era of Irish local government and it was during this time that St. Peter’s Market or the “Irish Market”, as it was known, to distinguish it from its “English” counterpart, was formed. While the English Market has been in continuous operation on the site since its official opening, its current buildings date back to the mid-19th century when the Market underwent significant redevelopment to enhance both its size and appearance. Under the supervision of distinguished architect, Sir John Benson, two new buildings were added to the outside, along with an ornamental entrance, fountain and new roof. The new Princes Street Market was opened in December 1862 and remained largely unchanged until June 1980 when it was seriously damaged by fire. Despite tough economic conditions, the Market was fully restored by Cork Corporation in keeping with its original Victorian architecture and was subsequently awarded a Gold Medal in 1983 from Europa Nostra, the international federation of conservation societies. Currently administered by Cork City Council, the Market draws locals and visitors from around the world and hosted Queen Elizabeth II during her state visit to Ireland in 2011. The Queen, in fact, requested a visit to the Market when she learned that it had supplied the British troops with its meat supplies throughout much of the course of British rule in Ireland and dating back to the Napoleonic wars.

respect and recognition

According to Chambers Ireland, the English Market is “a civic space, a meeting place, a thoroughfare, and a bustling social hub of the city” and it honored its achievements by making it the Local Government Award winner in 2011.

“With its variety of products, the pride of place accorded to small traders, the personalized service, the growing emphasis on organic products and reliance on small-scale producers, it is forever popular. A mix of traditional Cork fare and exciting new foods from afar, along with longstanding family-run stalls and newcomers from outside, all contribute to its unique appeal, which is celebrated widely, especially by visitors to the city…”

survival and growth

Originally catering primarily to the city’s wealthier citizens, both Catholic and Protestant, the Market also sold cheaper cuts of meat and offal to the less well-off and thrived until the beginning of the 20th century. Crubeens or pigs’ trotters and salted bodice or pigs’ spare ribs were sold alongside fine fowl and marbled beef. The First World War, however, brought a change of fortune to the Market. Rampant inflation caused food prices to escalate beyond the reach of both vulnerable customers and traders alike and the Market saw a sharp decline in business. This decline was further exacerbated by the War of Independence which inflicted physical damage to the Market itself. The downturn in trade continued throughout the Civil War and in its aftermath, as the city, as a whole, entered an extended period of economic depression. The Irish Market, unlike its English counterpart, struggled to continue in such dire circumstances and closed at the end of 1955. The English Market, however, clung to survival, and supported by a stubborn public, defied attempts by Cork Corporation to demolish it during the 1970’s. Further attempts to replace it with a shopping complex and car park during the recession of the 1980’s were also resisted but it was a gas explosion during this time, rather than economic factors, which almost brought the Market to its knees. Successful restoration, however, followed by a prolonged period of economic growth and prosperity, brought about a renewed sense of pride and interest in the Market. Buying patterns shifted, in response, with customers moving from primarily subsistence purchases to demanding more adventurous products. Blending the old with the new, the Market has risen to the challenge of meeting the diverse needs of a whole new food culture and has positioned itself firmly at the center of the Irish food movement. Now considered a food emporium, it brings together new, non-traditional traders with long-established family-owned businesses and customers can expect to buy cod and plaice along with octopus and lobster, all under one roof. In addition to an extensive array of herbs and spices, pastas, oils, olives and a whole range of artisanal breads, cheeses and chocolates, local specialties can be found in abundance. Buttered eggs, kidney and skirt or pigs’ kidneys and diaphragm, bodice or pork spare ribs with cabbage, tripe and drisheen (a type of blood pudding poached in milk) crubeens or pigs’ trotters, battleboard or salted cod and spiced beef are all highly sought after.